From the former, she took vivid colors—bold orange, intense blue, emerald green—and technical fabrics, in particular nylon that crumples like the sound of crunching snow. These were crafted into reversible gilets, blousons, coats and even a mini-skirt with quilting incorporating Longchamp’s racehorse logo and brightly coloured linings that popped against urban hues like black and khaki. Camouflage was another important theme, interpreted both on outerwear and on a fluid dress slit to the thigh, worn with one of the season’s key layering pieces—a skinny-rib rollneck—slipped underneath.
The cocooning section of the collection, meanwhile, nodded to the ski resorts built in the 1960s by French designer Charlotte Perriand. The authentic ambiance created by warm colours and natural wood furniture was reflected in cosy plaid jackets with large pockets, as well as elegantly oversized, masculine suiting in hound’s-tooth check. For evenings by a roaring fire, there were draped, knife-pleated dresses in jewel tones, worn over a contrasting rollneck or on their own to reveal bare, glowing skin.